Recipes That Survived War: The Flavors Empires Couldn’t Kill

The Power of Food: More Than Just Sustenance

Food, in its most primal form, is survival. It’s sustenance, the link between generations, and, at times, the last remnant of a dying culture. However, throughout history, food has also served as an act of rebellion, resistance, and even healing.

This is especially true during times of war. In every conflict — whether it was a world war, a civil unrest, or even a long-forgotten uprising — people have turned to food to assert their identity and maintain a semblance of normalcy. These are not just recipes. They are a testament to resilience and the enduring human spirit.

As we examine these war-surviving dishes, we’ll see that food carries far more than ingredients. It’s the story of a people who refused to be erased from history. It’s the undying will to preserve culture, family, and survival.

A History of Survival: The Role of Food in War

During war, food isn’t just about eating; it’s about holding on. Throughout history, food has been weaponized, controlled, and rationed to break the spirit of a population. Empires have used famine as a weapon — from the British Empire’s siege of India’s Bengal region to the Nazi occupation of Poland. Starving people is a method of control, a way to manipulate populations and demoralize resistance. But despite all this, food has always been a cornerstone of resistance.

Resistance in the kitchen might seem small compared to a battlefield, but it has been just as powerful in shaping history. A recipe passed from mother to daughter in the face of persecution becomes more than a meal; it becomes a statement. Even in times of scarcity, these recipes survived.

Let’s explore how some of these dishes transcended their humble origins and became symbols of defiance, preserving not just flavor but culture itself.

Recipes That Became Symbols of Resistance

Armenian Lavash: Bread as a Battle Cry

Lavash, the iconic flatbread of Armenia, has withstood centuries of invasions and occupation. The bread itself is not just a food but a symbol of survival, community, and pride. The Armenian Genocide of 1915, where an estimated 1.5 million Armenians were systematically murdered, marked a devastating chapter in Armenian history. Yet, amid the horrors, families continued to bake lavash, passing down recipes that represented the resilience of their people.

Lavash is more than just a bread; it’s often baked in a traditional stone oven, or tonir, in a communal setting. In many ways, the process of making lavash — kneading the dough, baking it together — became a form of resistance. It was a way for families to stay connected to their heritage, even as their land was being ravaged.

“Every time we eat lavash, we are reminded of those who survived and those who did not,” said Armenian historian Vartan Gregorian.

Today, UNESCO recognizes lavash as part of the world’s intangible cultural heritage, proving that even bread can become a battle cry for those who refuse to be erased.

Gazan Sumac Chicken: Flavors of Defiance

In the Gaza Strip, where the daily reality is defined by conflict, poverty, and uncertainty, food has become a symbol of endurance. Sumac chicken, a dish made with marinated chicken, spices, and the tangy flavor of sumac, is a staple in Gaza’s kitchens. But it’s more than just a flavorful meal; it’s a form of resistance.

The ongoing Israeli-Palestinian conflict has resulted in food shortages, trade restrictions, and widespread devastation. Yet, in Gaza, sumac chicken is often prepared in large quantities for families or shared with neighbors. In this dish, the bold flavors symbolize defiance against a world that has forgotten them.

"Cooking is one of the few things we can control. It keeps us grounded in our humanity, even when the world around us is falling apart." — Mariam Abu Ali, Gaza-based chef.

Sumac chicken’s presence in Gaza serves as a reminder that even in the midst of violence and isolation, the spirit of community and culture lives on.

Polish Borscht: The Soup That Fed an Uprising

Poland’s borscht, a beetroot soup with a deep red color and earthy flavor, tells the story of resilience during the Second World War. During the Warsaw Uprising of 1944, when Polish insurgents fought against Nazi occupation, borscht became a symbol of survival. Amidst the rubble and destruction, this humble soup provided warmth and nourishment to soldiers and civilians alike.

Borscht is typically made from beets, cabbage, and a variety of root vegetables — ingredients that were plentiful and inexpensive. For the people of Warsaw, it was a reminder that no matter how bleak the situation, they could still cook, share, and eat together.

In the aftermath of the war, borscht became a national dish of Poland, a reminder of the sacrifices made and the spirit of those who fought for their country’s freedom.

Syrian Fatteh: Comfort in the Midst of Chaos

Syria’s civil war, which began in 2011, has displaced millions and led to widespread devastation. Yet, through all the destruction, Syrians have found solace in their food — particularly in fatteh, a dish of layered bread, yogurt, and chickpeas. Fatteh is often served during Ramadan or festive occasions, but during the war, it became a symbol of home and community.

Despite facing bombs, starvation, and displacement, families continue to prepare fatteh as a way of holding on to what remains. It’s comfort food in its truest form, representing not just survival, but the warmth of family and tradition. This dish became a small, but significant, act of rebellion against the forces trying to destroy the Syrian way of life.

Yugoslavian Ćevapi: Preserving Culture Under Siege

Ćevapi, small grilled meat sausages, are a beloved dish across the Balkans. But during the Yugoslav Wars in the 1990s, this dish became a symbol of cultural identity. Despite the fragmentation of Yugoslavia and the brutal ethnic conflict, ćevapi continued to be made and served in the region, acting as a defiant assertion of the region’s shared heritage.

In cities like Sarajevo and Belgrade, ćevapi became a symbol of unity amidst division. Families continued to cook and share meals in the face of blockades, curfews, and constant threat. These humble sausages became a powerful reminder of the resilience of the people living under siege.

The Afterlife of These Dishes: How War Changed the Culinary Landscape

The aftermath of war is not just measured in casualties and borders. It’s also seen in the food people continue to eat, the recipes they preserve, and the way they adapt their culinary traditions to new realities. War changes food. It forces people to innovate, to adapt, and to transform their daily meals into symbols of survival.

Many of the dishes mentioned here have undergone transformations over the years. Ingredients may change due to scarcity or availability, but the essence of the dish remains. They are living artifacts, evolving with the people who continue to make them.

The Modern Legacy of War Foods: Rebirth and Reclamation

In 2025, these dishes continue to be made. They’ve traveled the world, spread through diaspora communities, and evolved into global symbols of resilience. Chefs across the world are resurrecting war-surviving recipes to honor those who came before them. From restaurants in London serving Syrian fatteh to pop-up Armenian lavash baking classes in New York City, these recipes are being reclaimed, repurposed, and shared.

In many ways, these dishes have transcended their origins. They’ve gone from being regional staples to global symbols of survival and resistance.

What We Can Learn from War-Era Recipes Today

The recipes that survived war teach us many things: about resilience, adaptation, and the power of food to connect us across time and space. In today’s climate of political and social upheaval, these dishes remind us that no matter how hard the world may get, there are still ways to preserve what matters. Whether it's family, culture, or identity, food has always been a source of strength.

As we continue to face global challenges, we can learn from these recipes. They remind us that the act of cooking and sharing meals isn’t just about food — it’s about keeping our humanity intact, even in the darkest times.

Closing Thoughts: How a Plate Can Carry the Weight of History

As you savor your next meal, think about the stories it carries. Food is never just food. It’s history, it’s resistance, it’s survival.

The dishes that survived wars — whether it’s lavash from Armenia, sumac chicken from Gaza, or borscht from Poland — teach us that food, at its core, is a powerful force. It’s a way to carry forward the legacy of those who endured, and a reminder that the spirit of survival is always with us.

Sources

1. "The Role of Food in Resistance." National Geographic.

2. "Baking Lavash: Cultural Identity in Armenia." The Armenian Weekly.

3. "Sumac and Survival: Gaza’s Culinary Resilience." Middle East Eye.

4. "Borscht and Uprising: The Warsaw Soup of War." Polish Culture Journal.

5. "Fatteh and Community in Syria." Al Jazeera Food Chronicles.

6. "Ćevapi as a Symbol of Yugoslavian Identity." Balkan History Review.